Having only the shortest amount of time in El Chaltén, we were struck to decide which trail we’d like to tackle. There are many noteworthy trails with views of unique mountain and lake landscapes to explore here.
Arriving late in the afternoon and attempting to get the lay of the land, we took a short trail from the visitor center. A warm-up hike as such, we soon were soaring high above a rocky outcrop, with the Andean condors. Over our time in Patagonia, this would be the closest we’d come to these magnificent creatures. A fun fact, or at least something that surprised me: these giants of the sky are not hunters (though they look like they could be). They’re just the hoovers of their world, cleaning up the dead and ridding the landscape of bacteria & disease. This hike would then take us a couple of kilometers out to view the sun fade across Lago Viedma.
The next morning, our only full day in El Chaltén, we headed off on our first major hike of this South American jaunt. With what looked like decent weather, we, along with every man, woman & child in a 100km radius, took to the most famous of loops, Laguna de los Tres. A roughly 20km roundtrip to the mirador (spectacular viewpoint) of Mount Fitz Roy, for reference, the big spike in the Patagonia brand’s logo.
That all being said, Ana & I chose a slightly unique route where a bus took us to a different starting point. Rather than doing a loop, we’d have the opportunity to see some other flora and fauna on a more direct one-way route. We jumped off the bus and soon threw every layer we had on, including raincoats… it was seriously blustery in the open section. Thankfully, this wasn’t the case throughout the remainder of the day.
We’d trudge from wide-open expanses to hiking on well-paved paths underneath canopies changing into their autumn colorful cloaks. Along the way, heading up, coming down, and so on. A pretty comfortable hike up until we took the turn for the final two kilometers.
Uphill, yes. Rocky, yes. Slippery, at times. People, way too bloody many! See the picture below to give you some idea.
For what should have taken us an hour of traversing back and forth to the trail summit took well over two and a half. Waiting for ill-prepared folks to attempt to scramble their way, one prime example was a guy in jeans, sneakers, and carrying what looked to be an over-the-shoulder computer bag… not quite what I’d be hiking Patagonia in. And he wasn’t the worst of it.
Taking matters into their own hands, you’d see cowboys charging off the designated path, destroying fragile plants unnecessarily (which I’m pretty sure in this type of extreme environment take years to grow). What happened to patience? What happened to respect your environment?
Taking our time allowed us to marvel in the lake and alpine surrounds. We were even greeted by a friendly little mouse who took a fancy to my phone… funny that those around were oblivious to the cute little fella.
Arriving at the top was a mission, with the morning’s fresh snow already compacted, we were left with an ice rink. Rocks were our best friend as they gave some grip. A quick selfie at the mirador and an unexpected visit from the local alpine fox chasing mice. It was time to retreat only after a few fleeting minutes as the mountain gods were turning angry. Bracing every few moments as fierce gusts would try to flick us off the mountain edge.
Descending was much quicker and easier (our knees say otherwise). Fewer crowds and many of those behind us on the way up wisely choosing to turn for home without completing the trail. We’d walk the ‘traditional’ route back to town along the lake and down the side of the hills. Our decision to do the alternate route was a brilliant one; we saw many more types of scenery and saw brilliant views of a glacier that we wouldn’t have otherwise.
Safe to say we were wrecked after hiking all day. Food, an ice-cold beverage, a hot shower & bed were in order.
